Fashion TV and the Motivation of His Audience

The beginning of the 21st century is characterized not only by important historical events in the world, but also by the changes in value norms and priorities. Television, being the most mass and accessible means of information, reflects these changes directly or indirectly. One of the significant trends of modern media is the development of an entertainment segment, which is present on television in the form of special formats and a specialized content. It is necessary to create special conditions for the permanent demonstration of their events, symbols and samples for the development of fashion, as the reflection of public and cultural content and as the means of search for a person's identity. Television has such natural features that provide fashion industry a unique platform for the development of a global fashionable space and intercivilizational communication. Fashion-TV complements the television picture of the world, influencing the spread of fashion trends and the development of a certain culture of behavior and lifestyle among TV viewers. Fashion-TV, as the combination of specialized Fashion channels and TV projects dedicated to fashion and human beauty on Russian social, political and entertainment channels, is primarily the carrier of information about modern fashion trends in clothing that influences the change of a person social-cultural image. This article the hypothesis of modern fashion TV has a blurred target audience with pronounced gender characteristics and a developed motivation. The article presents the results of the study conducted on the basis of the Kazan Federal University for two years.


Introduction
The interdisciplinarity of the study subject required the reference to various scientific trends.
In order to understand the specifics of fashion world phenomena and events coverage by television, the role of such a segmented approach to the target audience description, it is necessary to know the basic functions of television as a media and the tool for a public opinion development.Researchers distinguish the following functions: informational, cultural and educational, social-pedagogical (or managerial), organizational and recreational (or an entertaining) (Kuznetsov, 2002).Fashion-TV performs information, cultural, educational and recreational function simultaneously.
It seems useful to consider this phenomenon from the point of view of the basic genres of communication: performed and stated ones (Austin, 1999).Performed messages are designed to induce the objects of communication to behavior change, the attitudes that establish "the model of the world" in the minds of recipients.
Each type of a message is represented by a certain genre, which is used in this or that communication (Breton & Proulx, 1979).There are three basic genres -expressive, informative and argumentative one.TV "fashionable" discourse is characterized by a functional multilayered nature -it is aimed at a viewer's view change as the recipient of information, to induce him to some actions for his image improvement, it represents a certain model of the world.The considered projects often have the manipulation of an audience by the type of "seduction", the evocation to emotion, actively used in advertising (Breton & Proulx, 1979).The improvement of appearance is positioned by television as the marker of social success (Molloy, 1975).
According to R. Barth opinion, the phenomenon of fashion as a subject of culture is related to five contexts -language, body, art, consumption and life ideals (Bart, 2003).All these areas are semantic and instrumental dominants of television, like audiovisual media.Due to telecommunications, the development of a social institute of fashion is of an extensive nature and integrates its components almost into all spheres of public life.This is also noted by another author L. Svendsen: fashion became one of the most important phenomena of Western civilization.Gradually, it subdued many spheres of modern life and became our "second nature" largely ( 2007).
An intensive development of fashion TV and the increase of its audience confirm the view of fashion spread according to the "scattering theory" by H. Spencer (2017).The emergence of a new is possible in any social stratum, in any social group or subculture, with the subsequent spread to the rest ones (Chekeiri, 2012).
The most important task of this study was to identify the peculiarities of Russian "fashion" television programs to understand their motivation and determine the social-cultural role of this segment of television.

Methods
We used empirical and theoretical methods to conduct research: the methods of information analysis and synthesis, content analysis, as well as the method of questioning.The empirical base of the research were fashion programs on Russian TV channels (20 in total: "Fashion sentence", "Top model in Russian", "Take it off immediately", "10 years younger", etc.), as well as fashion-TV and World Fashion channels.The chronological framework for the content analysis of fashion programs: from 2013 to 2015.
In order to assess the demand for fashion programs by TV viewers and to analyze the motivation of this audience, the survey was conducted, in which 100 people took part -urban residents of the Republic of Tatarstan at the age from 16 to 60 years.In order to assess the results of the study, a systematic and interdisciplinary approach was used, which made it possible to combine the obtained data into a single research picture.

Results
The survey conducted in the framework of the study gave the following results.The majority (70%) of the respondents were women.There was a pronounced interest in fashion programs, broadcast on public, political and entertainment channels in the process of communication with the respondents.Men showed an interest to the viewing of specialized fashion TV channels.Of the total number of respondents, 30% of the respondents were the experts in the field of beauty and fashion (gender sign was not defined here).
90% answered in the affirmative and only 10% in negative to the following question: "Do you watch TV programs about beauty and fashion?"The respondents' answer to this question allows us to state a high popularity of fashion programs among Russian viewers.
The question arises about the frequency of such programs viewing.The respondents who are the experts in the field of beauty, watch fashion programs often and regularly (1-2 times a week).All other respondents turn their attention to this television content "less than 1-2 times a week".At the same time, it is significant that 30% of female respondents watch beauty blogs in social networks, which confirms the importance of beauty industry in the life of a modern woman and the increasing role of the Internet as the source of information about fashion trends and novelties.
Respondents were asked to highlight the most popular fashion TV programs among 20 projects that participated in our analysis.The following programs were among the unconditional leaders of public opinion: "Fashionable sentence" -First channel (35%), "To be in time in 24 hours" -"STS" (25%), "Top model in Russian way" -"Muz-TV" (22%) and "Top Model in American way" -"Muz-TV" (18%).The general picture of individual Russian fashion programs popularity is presented in Table 1.The answers of the respondents show clearly that the reality shows of the format "Competition", based on the introduction of patterns of social behavior through reference groups ("Top Model in Russian way" and "Top Model in American way"), and the fashion programs of the format "Transformation" ("Fashion sentence", "To be in time for 24 hours") are the most popular ones among viewers.At the same time, it is necessary to emphasize the high awareness of respondents about the fashion programs of these formats: 100% of respondents are familiar with the programs "Top Model in American way" and "Top Model in Russian way", 85% of respondents are familiar with the program "Podium".And there is a high share of respondents who watch these reality show -90%, 80% and 60% respectively.
Speaking about the "Transformation" format, it is necessary to note also the high awareness of the respondents about these programs: 100% of respondents are familiar with the programs "Fashion sentence" and "Take it off immediately", 75% of respondents are familiar with the program "To be in time in 24 hours", while the share of respondents who watch these program data are slightly lower than among the programs of the "Competition" format.It is also necessary to note the age of respondents here: reality TV show "Top Model in American way" and "Top Model in Russian way" are preferred by young girls at the age of 16-26 years, while the programs of "Transformation" format are in demand by the viewers at the age of 30-60 years.The respondents' answers to the question "What is important for you in a program?" were distributed according to the rating presented in Table 2.The majority of respondents answered that fashion programs are designed to train (40% of respondents) and to develop fashion trends (35% of respondents).It is significant that men prefer specialized fashion TV channels, with an entertaining function.
The participants of many programs are ordinary people, not related to the world of fashion.Therefore, in the process of the performed study, the following question was asked: "Would you like to take part in a fashion program?" 90% of the respondents answered positively to this question (Figure 4).

Discussion
The performed analysis of fashion programs on Russian television showed the presence of a variety of formats on public, political and public entertainment channels.According to the audience, the main task of fashion programs, as is shown by our survey, is to teach the basics of a fashionable appearance, the development of a special culture, as well as fashion trends.
An important role in the analyzed programs is occupied by commercial (standard commercial blocks, sponsorship gifts and hidden commercial -demonstration of a shop name where the purchases are made, the names of cosmetics used by stylists, etc.).Obviously, fashion TV teaches not only the correctness of clothes and color selection, but also definitely considers viewers as potential consumers, thus developing a demand for fashion products ( The performed survey made it possible to confirm the thesis that the training and information fashion programs are focused mainly on women.Men prefer watching the fashion channels that broadcast beauty without instruction and explanation and are aimed at visual perception.
The programs on such channels are background ones and bear an entertaining, rather than a learning role.At that, various formats of fashion programs are popular among different age groups of the target audience.The most popular programs among the youth between the ages of 16 and 26 are the reality shows "Top Model in Russian way" and "Top Model in American way".It is young people who are addressed by such programs as "the introduction of social behavior patterns through reference groups".The popularity of such reality shows in the youth environment reflects not only the high importance of fashion in public life of society, but also the importance of obtaining fashionable standards of behavior centrally, through the fashion shows of this type.
The programs of the "Transformation" format are present on most Russian TV channels (with the exception of channels targeting the youth audience), are shown during daytime on weekdays or on weekends.Our survey showed, they are second popular among TV viewers.
The fashion programs of the format "Transformation" ("Fashion sentence", "Take it off immediately", "10 years younger"), in contrast to the reality show of the format "Competition" are aimed at an audience of an older age (from 30 to 60 years) which was also confirmed by our survey.The popularity of such programs among the audience over 30 years is conditioned not only to the sensations of attractiveness loss due to biological factors, but also by life experiences, the failures in a personal life or career, which correlate with the appearance of a heroine in such programs.Such programs give the heroines the fairytale miracle of the transformation from Cinderella to a princess and the dream of a positive change in her personal life.
The division of "fashion" programs into three types by the method of influencing the audience's value orientations allowed us to identify the main ways of influence -public transformations (the most popular type of programs), the impact through reference groups and recommendations.Estimating the aesthetic direction of everyday life in consumer journalism, we note two points first of all.Firstly, a viewer receives a large share of such awards from these programs as a comfortable psychological experience and positive emotions, which brings an element of entertainment to the screen cognitive material, making these programs popular for leisure time.Secondly, the usefulness, the relevance of the information they receive is not limited only to the utilitarian and hedonistic interest to the creation of a beautiful appearance and surrounding space, so that they can be demonstrated then as the markers of success.Along with this, ideological, social-psychological, and culturological attitudes are also recorded in a viewer's mind.Ordinary viewers get the necessary information about the creation of an attractive appearance and fashion trends, professionals are able to understand the needs of their target audience, work methods and also about fashion trends.

Conclusion
The research reveals the following results: 1.An intensive development of mass media and "clip" television thinking, the expansion of the information field and its total visualization are the important factors in the process of globalization, in which television acts as an instrument for the development of global fashion and the intercivilizational communication for potential audiences and professionals.
2. Fashion TV, as a combination of specialized Fashion channels and television projects dedicated to fashion and human beauty on Russian social, political and entertainment channels, plays an important social-cultural role in society and a regulatory role in the fashion industry.
3. The popularity of fashion channel as audiovisual background in catering establishments, beauty salons, nightclubs grows in order to create an atmosphere of a fashionable establishment and the possibility of a visual aesthetic pleasure obtaining.At the same time 60% of fashion channel content is fashion shows.
4. Fashion programs on the channels "for all" are aimed at the distribution of modern fashion trends, the advertising of goods, and the specialization of fashion channels make them an authoritative source of information for the female target audience.Gender is at the heart of this channel specialization.Although age boundaries are blurred, a significant part of "fashion" program target audience is represented by women over 40.
5. The motivation of fashion project audience is characterized mainly by utilitarian and hedonistic interest to the creation of beautiful or well-groomed appearance, as the marker of success in career and in personal life.A viewer feels the great value of free recommendations and advice from TV experts in the "fashion" industry to achieve success.An important role of such programs is training, which confirms their manipulative nature.

Figure 1 .Figure 2 .
Figure 1.The structure of the answers to the question "Do you follow the recommendations received in the programs?"

Figure 3 .
Figure 3. Distribution of respondents by their wish to take part in a fashion program

Table 1 .
Popularity evaluation concerning separate fashion programs

Table 2 .
The rating of answers to the following question: "What is important for you in a It is equally important for viewers to see a hero